February 2024 marked our final trade show in Paris.
For decades, printed textile studios have relied on international trade shows to present collections to brands, retailers, and manufacturers worldwide. But the landscape has shifted dramatically. Since Covid, footfall has declined and the dynamic of these shows has fundamentally changed — and it doesn’t feel temporary.
Today, many visitors are primarily manufacturers and agents, often focused on speed and price rather than craft. After months of designing and printing collections, it can be disheartening to see work handled carelessly and valued purely in terms of how cheaply it can be produced. Some studios have allowed this model to dictate how their work is sold, but for us it began to feel like the industry had tipped too far, cashing in on the wake of the pandemic at the expense of creativity and value.
HOW COST ALSO AFFECTED OUR DECISION
That said, this wasn’t the only reason we stepped away. Trade shows are expensive, and unless you are already well established, it is incredibly difficult to reach the clients you actually want to work with. Many brands remain loyal to the studios they already know and rarely make time for something new. For smaller studios, the risk of investing heavily and returning home without sales is very real. When CocoBloom first launched, we were supported by UKFT and government funding, which helped offset these costs. When that support was withdrawn in 2020, the financial risk became even greater.
We now operate in a very different world from the one where printed textile design was not treated as a luxury. To survive, we have to adapt. In 2024, I made the decision to redirect that hard-earned investment into building meaningful, face-to-face relationships with clients. Instead of standing behind a booth, I began booking appointments, getting on planes, and meeting clients on their terms — giving them the time and space to truly engage with our work and understand the story behind how it is made.
Interestingly, many clients told us just how overwhelming trade shows are for them too. Often, the reason they don’t stop is not disinterest, but sensory overload.
NEVER LOOKED BACK
We haven’t looked back since making this decision. For a studio that creates truly unique pieces, it has been the right move. Our craft is sacred to us, and we are committed to protecting its value. We choose to work with clients who understand and respect that — and that clarity has changed everything.